A Nostalgic Ode to Adolescence: Sandy Liang Fall 2020 Ready-To-Wear at Stuyvesant

Stuyvesant High School might seem like an odd choice for a runway show venue at first. It is only expected, however, when you hear that the designer is none other than Sandy Liang. She has chosen many unusual locations for her past runway shows, ranging from her father’s restaurant—complete with fake menus and waiters serving lemonade—to the hip Lower East Side eatery Mission Chinese. This time, Liang returns to her high school with her new collection during the fall season of New York Fashion Week.

The famed math and science high school was transformed into a makeshift runway over the weekend. Spotlights lit up the majestic marble staircases between the first and second floors (the ones that Liang walked down every day 11 years ago while she was a student here), history classrooms were turned into dressing rooms, the long corridor next to the escalators was marked with blue masking tape, and the hallway walls were plastered with signs giving directions to “hair & makeup” and “backstage exit.”

At around 7:30 p.m., guests started arriving, most of them wearing Liang’s signature fleece jackets. Soon after they settled down in the two long rows of white benches, elegant music by a live string quartet filled the spacious first-floor lobby. To the rapid crescendo of Vivaldi’s “The Four Seasons,” models walked out in whimsical looks with a quick succession of baby pinks, royal blues, and beiges.

This season, Liang departed from her earlier style of florals and feminine cuts, opting for sophisticated unisex looks. All of the softer pieces were punctuated with no-fuss weighty ones. A loose-fit long silk dress in the dreamiest shade of light pink adorned with dainty crystals hanging off of tiny rings opened the show, followed by a billowy white blouse with Liang’s classic Peter Pan collar. It was worn with a black leather midi skirt, which added a hint of a tomboy feel to the otherwise delicate look. A sheer organza shift dress was paired with an oversized pink leather jacket and knee-high cowboy boots. Then came Liang’s celebrated fleece jackets: this time, there was a white high-neck that had a small strip of black and white gingham running down its center front, finished with an industrial belt at the collar. Liang continued to play with different textures in the following few looks: the next teddy bear jacket was with a cut of baby blue shirt fabric, also in gingham. The oversized silhouette was further exaggerated by a heavy fur coat with matching white ovals on a camel background.

As Liang herself said, her new collection returns to the ‘90s with its boxy cuts and nostalgic references to her adolescence. Motifs of the show included the straight-legged leather pants and cargo pants reminiscent of the sporty style that was in fashion back then. The overall vibe was playful but elegant, and the evolution of Liang’s artistic sensibilities was evident. She strayed away from the campier elements in her spring collection, such as neon yellow tulle draped over a skintight leotard, a large cartoon flower printed on leggings, and even a Spongebob graphic tee, to produce a collection that not only reminds one of the innocence of childhood but is also fit for more serious occasions. Liang’s magical touch of whimsy is omnipresent even in pieces with the most graceful tailoring; two models walked out arm in arm, both wearing cardigans with overall prints of giant blue anime eyes, which is most definitely a homage to the Japanese shoujo anime that was ubiquitous in the ‘90s.

Liang’s wholesome sense of humor could be felt in almost every look on the runway. The guests oohed and aahed as one model in a simple royal blue sweater descended the stairs with a small white figure cradled in her arms. Upon some squinting and exchanging whispers with those around them, the guests realized that the figure was indeed a cute little chihuahua (which, as Liang told us after the show, turned out to belong to her brother).

And as the Vivaldi music came to a stop, the audience seemed to have woken up from an intimate dream about their own teenage years.